Job 05 — RV & parking pads
RV pads, built to hold the weight
Section 01 — Built for the weight
An RV, camper, or boat trailer parked in one spot for months puts sustained point-loads on a slab that a driveway never sees. An RV pad needs to be built for that from the start, or it settles and cracks under the jack stands within a couple of seasons.
What it costs
| Job | Spec | Typical $/sq ft |
|---|---|---|
| Standard RV pad (single unit) | 5" · rebar · 3,500 PSI | $6 – $10 |
| Heavy pad (large motorhome, dual axle) | 6" · rebar · 4,000 PSI | $7 – $12 |
| Pad with hookups (water/power/sewer stub-outs) | 6" · rebar + conduit/sleeves | $8 – $14 |
A typical 12×40 RV pad (480 sq ft) runs roughly $3,400–$5,800 depending on thickness and whether utility stub-outs are added before the pour.
Section 02 — What to spec
Getting the pad right the first time
- Thickness and reinforcement for the actual weight. A loaded Class A motorhome or a truck-and-trailer combo is much heavier than a passenger vehicle — tell your contractor what's parking there, not just "an RV."
- Slope for drainage, away from the unit and any structure. Standing water under an RV for months causes problems a driveway never has to deal with.
- Utility stub-outs before the pour, not after. If you plan to add power, water, or a sewer connection later, run conduit and sleeves under the slab now — cutting into a finished pad later is expensive and ugly.
- Length and turning clearance. Measure your actual rig, not a generic size — a pad that's a few feet short forces awkward parking every time.
Worth knowing
If hookups are even a maybe for the future, get the conduit in now. It's one of the cheapest add-ons at pour time and one of the most expensive to retrofit — a few hundred dollars in sleeves versus cutting and patching a cured slab.
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